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  • Writer's picturerohit sharma

Tapori is doing Indian cuisine like you've never scene before.


The buzz: Chef and owner Rohit Sharma oversaw more than 100 F&B businesses for India’s R4 Hospitality including the Maroon Room and Freemasons Brew Works in Guwahati. Tapori takes diners beyond the cliches, mining recipes from a more than 300 dish database and narrowing it down to a top 29 first issue.

 

The vibe: Reflecting the multicultural layers of the food, the decorations go from traditional to contemporary Indian art. From the 200 year old wooden door frame imported all the way from Rajasthan to the astrological sundial clock and the vibrant pop art murals, this space oozes the artful class you find on the menu. The venue is larger than meets the eye, containing both a patio and a hidden bar entered behind a cozy village-inspired garden area. 

 

The food: Tapori is a hindu slang for “wanderer,” and the menu takes you on a journey through handpicked ingredients from the lesser known parts of India’s 28 states. 


Photo: Dal pakwan / BK Magazine

 

The famous Sindhi style brekkie dal pakwan (B350) usually serves spiced up lentil curry with crispy flat bread. Tapori saves the fun of cracking the popadom on top and mixing it with the rich blend of sweet and tangy flavored puree below. The fare is served warm and has an extra kick. 



Photo: Tawa-masala kaleji ice cream / BK Magazine

 

Reminiscent of a cold pate, tawa-masala kaleji (B420) alters its usual flavor profile from strong to mild. Traditionally found in Delhi weddings, the north meets south dish is a chicken liver flavored ice cream. We urge you to try this one even if you’re not a fan of innards as the gamey flavor that turns some off is nowhere to be found. Eaten on a bed of dosa, you’ll be pleasantly surprised with the extra nutty crumble.



Photo: Gobhi musallam / BK Magazine

 

Uttar Pradesh, a northern state in India, is a treasure trove of vegetarian creations. Taproi’s take on the gobhi musallam (B380) is visually striking with chopped roasted cauliflower coated in a delightfully silky and heaty cream curry. Sitting in the middle of the dish, the delicate whole-roasted beetroot adds a bit of tanginess to the mix. 



Photo: Wahan Mosdeng / BK Magazine

 

Tipping its hat to the flavors of Tripura, their authentic wahan mosdeng (B420) will strike a sense of familiarity with the Thai crowd. The mixed salad with finely chopped cabbage, onion, ginger, and coriander pairs well with szechuan infused pork cubes. It’s similar to our yum

 


Photo: Bajra Khichda / BK Magazine

 

Originating from Rajasthan, Bajra Kichda (B480) is the ultimate comfort grub. The lentils and millet are boiled until achieving an overnight oats consistency. The savory bites are then drizzled with rich clarified ghee and served warm alongside spiced up crunchy bits of papadum. 


 


Photo: Benami kheer / BK Magazine

 

Moving onto Awadh kitchens, the benami kheer (B350) is a coral reef looking dessert that might scare away the trypophobics out there. But we assure you that the milky ice cream treat is worth a try. If not for the pleasantly moderate sweetness (no added sugar involved), have a shot at guessing the curious secret ingredient that sprinkles in an extra dimension to the dish.

 


Photo: Tapori Bar / BK Magazine

 

The drinks: Tapori also has their own speakeasy where you can pop over for a nightcap or get the booze delivered to the dining area. Using liquor imported from and inspired by India, you’ll get signatures like the Amrud aka Guava (B400), a refreshing tipple that looks deceivingly light but the pink guava rind infused with tequila and jalapeno gives it a bit of a kick in the end. The leaf shaped cookie garnish mellow things out with powdery milky flavors.

 



Why we’d come back: As each dish has such a specific purpose representing a region’s culinary wisdom, you can design a completely different dining experience each time you visit. 

 

22, 2 Sukhumvit 47 Alley, 064 569 3798, Open Tues-Sun 5:30-11pm

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